Sapporo

This was going to be the start of our journey to the northern island of Hokkaido, home of ramen, giants, hot springs and cheese. First stop was going to be Sapporo, capital of the north, except we were still in Tokyo, Shinjuku. So we left first thing, at a pretty casual pace. By the time we were sat down on the 1038 train to Narita Airport however, we were out of breath, having sprinted the up and down escalator maze that was the train station. We used Jetstar to bridge the gap between Tokyo and Sapporo and found the experience alright - a Japanese serviced airline paired with the cramped and cost cutting spirits of a low-budget airline.

The whole domestic travel malarkey was very straight forward, and just a few hours later we had touched down in New Chitose Airport about 30mins South East of Sapporo by train. We arrived in Sapporo and then sought to get our dinner.

There are a few different types of ramen you can experience, but the best in my opinion is Miso Ramen, and the home of miso ramen is Sapporo. So it seemed apt that we visited, next to Sapporo train station, Ramen Republic, a collection of Ramen restaurants bundled in together in a matching theme on the 10th floor of the JR Tower.

After dinner we wandered further south to what was previously known as the red light district. This seems to be a theme across Japan that the old red light districts have been revitalized into the popular entertainment districts. It was an area rich with bars and restaurants, except something was different. The majority of bars were termed 'girl bar'. One would be forgiven for thinking they are shady bars, but the explanation I learned was that Japanese men work too hard. They work so hard as to a detriment to their social lives and skills. Girl Bars provide a service in the way of a host, to talk to men and keep them company in a conversant way. Sex talk and solicitation is prohibited, so I'm told.

We managed to find a sports bar that was a 'Girls Bar' at the back, but just an ordinary bar in the front and managed to enjoy a few drinks without being hassled. Told a couple of friends about the bar who were due to visit a few months after us, and as women, they were denied entry to the bar...

Our first full day in Sapporo was going to feature quite a bit of a walking, but the main attraction would be walking along the mall that stretched between the Sapporo Court of Appeal and the Sapporo TV Tower and kind of marks the middle of the entertainment district from the night before, also the middle of the underground tunnel network, which we learned about after we had walked everywhere in the rain.

First though, we had breakfast at Bikkuri Donkey. I suspect they are the Japanese equivalent of Wimpy or Little Chef, but for us it was a completely new experience. I encourage you to read this article on the brand. My favourite part is the explanation for the name which means surprised donkey, where a donkey was chosen "to represent its theme of being “not the coolest or the smartest, but kind and hardworking.” Apparently, like a donkey".

Immediately after breakfast we walked to see the Red Brick Government Building, but there was something weird about it on the approach. We couldn't see it until we were close enough to take our photos. The building was subject to intensive renovation, so they saw fit to disguise the construction with an image of the actual building. As we came even closer we went inside the adjoining structure for a short free exhibition on the history and construction of the building. It was quite impressive to see they were renovating it inside a huge protective outer shell.

Next stop was the former Sapporo Court of Appeal, which was the building on the edge of western end of the mall, but being former, it is now used to showcase local history and work from local artists, entry is free.

And so started our half day walk to the other of the mall, ending at the TV Tower at the east end. Next peculiar stop was the Meibaum, a German custom for prosperity, health and safety of family and livestock, gifted to Sapporo when it became sister city with Munich.

There was a sculpture showing a Hokkaido fauna, an Eko deer, Hashibuto crow and Ezo hare listening to the words of the Ezo owl. An excellent statue.

Unfortunately bad timing meant that we got to walk past a lot of beer and food festivals in the process of being setup, but wouldn't get to enjoy it. We were also stalked by a crow, and no, I'm not being paranoid. It was following us, all the way to the Sapporo TV Tower.

Of all the observation towers - and there have been and will be many more - this is one of the best. Views all around at many angles with flat glass viewing windows. A photographers dream. People who design observation decks with curved glass are monsters.

For lunch, we went to the Nijo Fish Market and restaurant Donburi Chaya

for a bowl of rice, sweetcorn and seafood!

We had plans to go out in the evening so naturally being 40 years old, we needed a nap before heading out. First we went to Flair Bar Es, drank shots from a ski, met some locals, joined their birthday party, ran through the heavy rain, hung out in an underground Japanese hip hop bar, then went to a tiny nightclub with free entry for gaijin where we felt like actual celebrities...and found ourselves awake, drunk and high on life at 4am, knowing we had to catch the early train to our next destination - Noboribetsu. This isn't the first time we've been kidnapped by locals to a secret underground bar. Hopefully not the last.